Exploring the surf, sand, yoga, and margaritas of the colourful fishing town on the Nayarit coast.

With the winter mountain trips slowing to a stop, it was time to think about going somewhere hot for a while. I cruised travel blogs and reached out to friends for recommendations, and Mexico kept coming up. On a whim, I snagged a cheap flight to Puerto Vallarta. Now, I had zero intention of doing the resort thing, intending to bus elsewhere from the airport, when a colourful town just north of PV caught my eye: Sayulita. After I began telling people where I intended to go, it turned out that Sayulita was the best town I’d never heard of! I heard wonderful stories about the charm, the atmosphere, the food, the parties, and the beaches. And they weren’t wrong! Here’s a quick little guide to Sayulita in case you are also desperately in need of a relaxing tropical beach!

Some Background

Sayulita is located in the Nayarit state of Mexico, along the coast of the Pacific Ocean. It was originally a small fishing town, also producing coconut oil, but has exploded in the last few years, with changes like ATMs, gas stations, paved roads, and a boom in housing accompanying the increasing amount of residents and visitors. The town is colourful and vibrant, with a low-key artsy vibe reminiscent of some hipster-industrial areas of larger cities. Sayulita also has a large community of Canadian and American ex-pats; these thirty-somethings have been drawn to this place by the yoga and surf scene, plus the relative freedoms offered by life in small town Mexico. For these young people, many of whom are able to work remotely, the idea of morning yoga, afternoon surfing, dozens of fresh and delicious restaurants, mezcal bars, and a vibrant music scene is a tempting prospect. For novice Spanish-speakers like myself, tourism is big enough that English is not hard to come by, and, for solo-travelers like myself, Sayulita is widely known to be very safe.

Some things I loved

• The freedom of Mexico. You can drive anywhere and stop anywhere, smoke anywhere and drink anywhere. You can cross the street whenever you like, and ride in the back (or on the hood) of pickup trucks. It made me laugh every time I encountered one of these novel violations of the rules of North American society as I was used to it, but I found the lack of government hand-holding quite refreshing.
• The street vendors. Amazing tacos, whole BBQ’d chickens, fresh-squeezed orange juice, elaborate banana desserts, fried corn, late-night hot dogs, shrimp on a stick, cigars, kids selling jewellery, smoothies, sugary crunchy churros, pastries from the back of a pickup truck, bags of candy and nuts, fresh bread in the morning, platters of donuts brought to you as you sit on the beach – you name it!
• The colours. The bright pinks, the teals, the yellows, the concrete, the rusted bars, the multi-coloured banners, the dogs, the lush green tropical plants, the store names painted brightly on coloured or bare concrete, the flowing, beachy clothing, the inspirational graffiti.
• The music. The locals always surrounded themselves with music. From the market stands playing early-morning Mexican pop to the speakers brought to the beach to the roaming bands in the street to the endless music options at the clubs and bars, Sayulita was full of music.
• The yoga. So many quiet and relaxing studios, and such a welcoming vibe. I met cool travelers and locals during these sessions, and even accidentally stumbled across the small acro yoga community, who taught me to do my first ‘star’ (a handstand done off someone else’s feet, instead of off the floor – definitely google it, because it’s insane!).
• The beaches. Anything from Hawaiian resort style (chairs, umbrellas, burgers, and Coronas) to secluded beaches with azure oceans dotted with fishing boats.
• The energy. I was described to me by one ex-pat I met as ‘movement’. There’s always something happening, always people coming and going, and everyone is welcoming and ready to chat.

Some tips

• Ask for help if you need it. Most people speak enough English to communicate with you, and if not, they are quick to whip out Google Translate to help!
• You’ll want some pesos. Many places do not accept credit, and many of the places that did had spotty reception, extra fees, and minimum charges. There are literally ATMs everywhere though.
• Haggle at the markets. I never paid full price. They’re expecting it, and there’s good deals to be had.
• Downtown can be loud! Unless you plan on being out late every night, it may be worthwhile to look for a place outside the main few streets. Sayulita is so small that it’ll probably never take you more than 15 minutes to walk anywhere.
• As above, you don’t need a car. In fact, driving and parking is more of a hassle than it’s worth. There are some worthwhile things to check out beyond Sayulita (like Monkey Mountain, San Pancho, and Punta Mita), but buses and taxis are available.
• Wifi was a bit spotty. However, most places offered free wifi, so there’s no shortage of places to connect.
• Practice sun sense. Drink lots of water, reapply sunscreen often, lather on aloe for burns, and bring a light cover-up for the beach or on the water.

Some options to get there

If you’re flying, the closest airport is in Puerto Vallarta. There are a number of options to continue on from the airport. I took the local bus myself, which was the cheapest and most adventurous option. After exiting the airport, you walk left around the building and cross the street via a pedestrian bridge to the bus stop. A ride costs 46 pesos (as of April 2019), and buses go to Sayulita every 20 minutes. If you’re worried about getting the wrong one, there is actually a guy who stands there and calls out the bus to Sayulita as it pulls in. The airport staff were also extremely helpful in telling me exactly where I needed to be and what I needed to look for. The ride was about an hour with all the stops, but I very much enjoyed the sights and traffic antics of Mexico, plus the windy road through the jungle.

I met some other travelers who had taken a taxi or an Uber from the airport also. This cost about $50 USD, but I met a few taxi drivers who offered to take me there for much less, so it sounds like there’s room to haggle. Car rentals and luxury bus services are also available from the airport.

Some places to stay

There are tons of colourful hotels in Sayulita, ranging from glamorous, gated resorts to modest and convenient. There are also a number of hostels in town, if you’re on a budget or looking to meet other travelers. I had a short stay at La Redonda hostel, which was one of the better hostels I’ve been at. Additionally, Airbnbs are plentiful and cheap, especially if you’re traveling with others. My only recommendation is to consider a place slightly outside of the main streets downtown, as the music sometimes went on until 5:30 am!

Some weather

My visit was in late April, and the temperature hovered around 30 degrees C (86 F). While the forecast called for mixed sun and clouds, this basically meant 95% sun with periods of blessedly cool shade. At night, the temperature dropped down to a comfortable 20 degrees C (68 F), and mornings were cool and pleasant on the patio. The summer months in Sayulita – the ‘rainy season’ – are to be avoided, as the humidity goes through the roof. Apparently, much of the town closes down, and many of the residents go elsewhere for a few months.

Some water precautions

I was concerned about the water, as I heard some horror stories and have a sensitive stomach. However, I had zero problems with basic precautions (and even with a few slip ups). I filtered all of my water (using my Sawyer water filter), or filled up my bottle from filtered taps. I was careful to brush my teeth using my filtered water. I made sure to wash dishes, fruits, and vegetables in water treated with a few iodine drops. I have heard of people going so far as to avoid ice in their drinks at restaurants and avoid things possibly made with tap water, but I had all the ice I wanted and ordered drinks indiscriminately. It’s very possible that I just got lucky however. I also ate at pretty well-reviewed places, so it seems likely to me that they weren’t regularly making people sick.

Some things to do

• Check out the beach. The farther north you head, the quieter it will be.
• Try a tour. Fishing, sailing, kayaking, Marietas Islands, wildlife viewing, hiking, back-country 4x4ing, mountain biking – there’s plenty to try!
• Hit the water. Try surfing, stand up paddle boarding, or just swim.
• Walk around. Check out the street vendors and shops and galleries. Admire the beautiful villas, the beach views, the sunsets, and the wandering dogs.
• Find your zen. There are numerous yoga classes all over town: Ashtanga, Vinyasa, Hatha, Acro, Yin, plus an interesting pilates-style class termed ‘yogalates‘.
• Salsa dancing. Lessons can be found if you’re brand new, and a number of restaurants hold dancing nights, such as Don Pedro’s by the beach, and Jack’s Place by the bus station.
• Visit San Pancho. This sleepy town is about a 10 minute drive north of Sayulita. Grab a 150 peso taxi, or you can walk up from Sayulita through the jungle (about an hour and a half). The beach is stunning (better than Sayulita’s I think), and the town is incredibly clean and well-kept, and full of cute shops, great restaurants, banyan trees, and parks. While Sayulita was described to me as a ‘city’, San Pancho is where many people live and raise their families. I absolutely loved it, and would definitely consider returning here for a longer stay.
• Check out Playa de los Muertos (beach of the dead). Follow the coast line south, past the luxury resort, and you’ll hit the Sayulita graveyard. Pass through this, and you’ll discover a small beach with excellent sand and calmer waters than the main one.
• Find a patio and a margarita and relax. Despite Sayulita’s energy, it’s still a laid-back beach town, and just hanging out all day is totally acceptable!

Some places to eat

Cafes:

• Yah Yah Cafe – Air-conditioned, modern, and cute. There are comfy seats, books (both in English and Spanish), and great wifi. While I’m not a coffee drinker, both the variety of coffees and the brewing techniques impressed me.
• Orangy – Excellent fresh smoothies and juice!
• Northside Cafe – This one was described to me as an ‘institution’ on the north side of town. Definitely had some great pastries!
• Wa kika – The infamous popsicle place! Dozens of flavours, in both water and cream based varieties.
• Matiz – By day, a plant-based cafe with the best chai latte I have ever had in my life (and I’m a chai snob); by night, a relaxed tapas place with 2 for 1 margaritas.
• Miscelánea Sayulita – The drink I had here was unreal. Caramel on the side of the cup, garnished with some irresistibly smoky bark…

To eat:

• Bichos – Low-key taco bar featuring some fantastic tacos in a relaxed garden space.
• El Itacata – My one regret is that I didn’t get a chance to try this place, since it consistently ranks top of the pack. Small, authentic Mexican place, but you might have to wait for a table!
• Tierra Viva – A little more expensive and touristy, but excellent food with high reviews from the locals. The second floor patio has a great view, plus there are iguanas sometimes…
• Yeikame – This authentic Mexican place has the distinction of serving the best meal I had in Sayulita: a mouth-wateringly good burrito.
• Organik – If you’re in the mood for something healthy/organic/western, this is the place. This one brought me back to Vancouver – poke bowl with a frosty glass of fresh iced tea.
• Street vendors – While I certainly didn’t try all of them, there are some real gems, from tacos to chicken to churros. You need churros in your life.

To drink:

• Yambak – Find them in Sayulita square. They made the best margarita of the trip (passionfruit).
• Cava – If you’re interesting in trying a variety of the local alcohol of choice – mezcal, made from the agave plant – check out Cava, as this is their specialty
• Atico – This came to be known as the ‘swing bar’ during my trip, as there are swings around the bar instead of seats. They also have some great bands at night.
• Lucid – While I didn’t get a chance to check out Lucid, I almost did three separate times! Lucid seems to be famous for hosting some pretty big parties. The night I arrived, they had a late-night dance party happening in the street.
• Camarón – This funky bar is right on the beach to the north. The large sandal sculpture outside is apparently a collection of shoes left behind by intoxicated patrons.

Some personal trip highlights

Cruising on a vintage sailboat to the Marietas Islands. This was arranged through some awesome people I met at a bar, an situation I’m very glad I stumbled upon. After a day of swimming, beers, laughs, and an empty bottle of mezcal, we all took turns writing inspirational words on a piece of paper, which was stowed in the empty bottle, and lobbed into the ocean for someone to find in future days.

Meeting new people. One of the good things about traveling alone is that you really put yourself out there, and have some fascinating chance encounters as a result. Project energy, adventure, and positivity into your world, and similar people will find you. I found that, every time I sat down at a bar, I met someone new who wanted to chat. I learned about Mexico, heard some amazing life stories, and got some great restaurant recommendations!

Yoga. There were so many lovely studios in Sayulita, and I had the chance to practice with a number of great teachers, locals, and fellow travelers. I started most days with a morning practice, surrounded by tropical flowers and the harmonious cacophony of the jungle birds and bugs.

Salsa dancing. I was a bit intimidated at first, but I’m glad I went for it. I took a lesson with a fabulous instructor, directly followed by a open dance night at Don Pedro’s with a live salsa band. While I was a total noob, everyone was welcoming and friendly, and it was a great vibe.

The birds. Maybe a weird highlight, but they were super cool! The massive pelicans, the sweet yellow songbirds, the Frigates (insane fliers due to their unusual wings and double tail), and the noisy Chachalacas, which sounded like a rusty hinge.

My first night in town. I got off the bus at the edge of town at night, and arrived in the middle of a town-wide party. Apparently, many in Mexico get off the week before Easter to celebrate the holiday, and celebrate they do! Everyone around me was speaking Spanish, and I had no ability to locate the street signs I needed to point me where I needed to be. I found myself surrounded by fire dancers, horses, music, and people. This first glimpse of Mexico was a little overwhelming, but looking back, I’m very glad I owned the experience: I grabbed the only empty seat I could find at a bar, ordered fajitas and margaritas, and made some friends!

Some of the best moments of my journey were made possible by a couple of lovely ladies I met along the way! Check out their new adventure tour business GoodVibes Adventures to experience unique and colourful Sayulita – anything from sailing to surfing to yoga to local ranch experiences (and the infamous ‘hot milk’).

Hope you find this guide helpful if you ever plan a trip! Sayulita is a fun town and definitely worth a visit. Ever been? What are some of your favourite things to see and do and eat? Let me know in the comments below!