Hiking the Kamaileunu Ridge on the West Coast of Oahu, Hawaii

I live for ridges. Don’t get me wrong: I love to slog through close trails then break suddenly into the alpine, finally stumbling out of the dark trees to a dazzling summit. But ridges are something else. In terms of cost-benefit ratio, they have no match. When I took a quick survey of the trails on the island of Oahu, Hawaii, for an upcoming trip, I couldn’t help but be excited. So many ridges! While I explored many a ridge on Oahu (see a few of my favourite pics below), one of the most memorable was Kamaileunu Ridge, which leads to the third highest peak on the island.

Another stunning Oahu ridge – Koko Head Crater

Vertigo warning: the rock you’re seeing below my foot is the actual trail we ascended. Some intense scrambling!

Seriously, these ridges could cut glass.

You know how some trails start with a gentle logging road, or a slow ascent through trees before the real incline starts? This trail did not pull any punches. We were climbing hard and sweating right off the bat. While it’s probably not fair to classify this one as a scramble (hiking that requires use of your hands), there was enough light climbing and large rocks to keep the steady ascent interesting. The trail in general was well-marked, especially considering how empty it seemed. Pink flags indicated the way and were scattered throughout the trail, while in rockier areas, spray-painted red circles on the rocks showed the most promising paths forward. However, all the markings seemed more like a formality than a necessity. A ridge is a ridge – narrow, open, and straightforward – and all ways lead up!

Climbing higher, we passed mostly through shrubs and dry grass, pausing now and then to turn around and drink in the views of the aquamarine ocean, white beaches, emerald valleys, and a solar farm! We were roasting in the heat, so I imagine the farm was catching lots of rays.

Can you spot the solar farm?

I had taken the lead when a small, white animal caught the corner of my eye. While I had been expecting to see mountain goats and perhaps even some wild pigs (the ridges in this corner of the island are well-known hunting areas), I was not prepared to encounter this creature, and remember exclaiming, slightly startled: “what is that!?”. “A dog,” the blunt answer. D’uh.

As we had yet to encounter a soul on this trail, the discovery of this small dog was (and still is!) a mystery. He didn’t look obviously sick – just very hot, and understandably so. Out thermometer was logging 34°C (93°F), and what small amount of shade the shrubs and rocks could provide was wholly unsatisfying. Someone’s missing pet? No collar. Stray? But how could this little dog climb some significantly steep rocks to get here? Were his owners farther up the trail? While we didn’t have any bowls or cups, squirting some water from a hydration pack into cupped hands worked just as well. The water, plus some chicken from our lunches, did him well (I tried without success to give him a piece of a Clif bar – even though this starving dog wouldn’t touch one, I practically live on these things. Yikes.). After resting with our new, now much peppier, friend for a little while, we continued on our way. I was certain he would follow, and he did for a few minutes, but we quickly lost sight of him. Oh well.

Thirsty doggo.

Satisfied doggo.

The Hawaiian rainbow had eluded us until this point.

We ran into our new friend again on the way down, which pleased us (as we had been watching for him for some time). After some more water and snacks, he was happy to take a rest with us in the shade we created. When we were ready to leave again, we looked at him to follow, but he remained stubbornly in place. Feeling like he would have been better off coming down with us than remaining in isolation on this deserted trail, we left, not quite certain that leaving him behind was the right decision.

Such shade. Much rest. Wow.

We had brought about 2 L of water each, and ran out with about 20 minutes left on the trail. All I could think about those last few minutes was the jug of water we had left in the trunk of the rental car. Finally, we hit the pavement. The rest of the day only needs a few words: water, ice-cream, beach.

Well-earned rest!

Trail Stats:

The trail as logged by my Garmin watch.